Thursday, May 29, 2008

1999 Schaefer, time to go

Since Lyle is over at Rockss and Fruit falsely comparing 2007 to 1996, I thought it was my duty to put some real information about German wine on the internet. Just to preface, I’m pretty sure that of the “Theise” guys, Schaefer is the man.

1999 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese

This wine was so beautiful when it was young that I couldn’t keep my hands off of it, which is why this was my last bottle. I think I caught this one just where I like it, before the kerosene starts, but with some flavor development. 1999 was never the strictest of vintages, but the framing structure has held up OK. There are still a few flowers although things are tending towards the honeysuckle end of the spectrum. Yellow plum compote is what comes to mind, I have no idea why. Reminds me of a Chistian Ferber confiture. After a couple of days in the fridge (I went out of town) it sort of became flimsy and a bit plodding. Still drinkable, but not nearly as good as that first evening. My advice would be to begin finishing these off, but it is a fact that other folks like their German wines with more tertiary aromas than I do. For me, when you start to lose the crystalline etched structure and flavor, you begin to lose what I love most about Riesling in the Mosel. In great vintages the wines manage to hold onto to this while developing more mature nuance. 1999 is not a vintage for this, IMO.

3 comments:

Lyle Fass said...

I like Schaefer but he is not Middle Mosel elite like Haag, Prum or even Lieser. The wines taste fine young, don't really age that well and never develop complexity. I did not compare 2007 to 1996 . . .you just don't know how to read. I talked about 2007 and then also referenced an essay TT did on 1996 that was interesting. In no way was I making a comparison. So blow me.

Lyle Fass said...

Drink a 1971 Haag or Prum and if you don't like it then you don't like old Mosel.

Anonymous said...

Pretty much every 1999 german riesling blew. Schaefer was the only one who made wine I could drink. Even the wines from JJ Prum were flabby (and still are) from 1999. Lyle, I personally prefer Schaefer to Haag and Lieser. I think he's more consistently good, and the high peaks are higher. Ever had a Schaefer from the 70s? Or a BA?